Seeing through the gray

Blue skies were rel­a­tively nor­mal my first year in Guangzhou– some­thing that I can be very thank­ful for liv­ing in a big city in China. But the past few months have been noth­ing but dreary. The worst of win­ter gloom seems to be over though, as a recent heat wave sprin­kled with ran­dom five-minute down­pours has brought bril­liant azure skies and big white puffy clouds– bluer and puffier than I’ve ever seen.

Take a look at some views from my train ride to Hong Kong yesterday:

If it weren’t for the crazy ugly build­ings with tiny, barred win­dows and the loom­ing sky­scrap­ers being built in the back­ground, you’d think we were some­where other than China.

**This is prob­a­bly one of those “you know you’ve been in China too long…” posts. As in, “You know you’ve been in China too long when your blog posts fea­ture pic­tures of clouds and blue skies.….”

Eggs-pat

When I first moved to China, I thought that the pile of eggs stacked so neatly at the wet mar­kets looked so naked with­out their egg crate pack­ag­ing. Bring­ing home eggs in a small plas­tic bag­gie?! The idea seemed so out­ra­geous, so crazy. What hap­pened if they BROKE?!

But like many other things, the sights and sounds that were once so for­eign and shock­ing are now a part of my daily life– a daily life that I have expec­ta­tion of now, yearn­ings for, even. I am going back to the states for a cou­ple of weeks in August, and have a feel­ing that reverse cul­ture shock might take place. As insane as it may sound, I love the dirty alley­ways, the open-air meat mar­kets, the cou­ples yelling on the sub­way, and the push­ing and shov­ing in lines. Okay, maybe not that last one.

Most of all, I love my mar­kets. I love the chicken lady who knows I usu­ally buy whole chick­ens cut into quar­ters, the lady I buy most of my greens from and tells me what’s best to buy, I love the man­gos­teens and drag­on­fruit and huge water­mel­ons that are piled on the fruit­stands, I love hav­ing to walk to my local wet mar­ket every other day if I choose to cook, I love cir­cling the veg­etable stalls two or three times before I decide on what to lay my hands on. I even love hav­ing to run from store to store to store to find some­thing as sim­ple as AP flour.

At my local market, picking out a dozen eggs

And even though I don’t love to eat eggs, I love buy­ing them. In fact, my new­found love of egg pur­chas­ing has almost got­ten me to turn the cor­ner as far as eat­ing them. At the wet mar­kets in China, egg ven­dors set up with mounds of egg pyra­mids piled lay­ers deep– chicken eggs, duck eggs, salted eggs, large goose eggs. Of course the chicken egg pyra­mids are piled the high­est, and though there are often more than one vari­ety of chicken eggs, I do what I do in China when I have no idea what my choices actu­ally are– just choose some­thing in between. So I usu­ally buy the chicken eggs that are in the mid­dle, both in terms of price as well as color and size.

Now, all egg ven­dors also have a small ledge with holes in front of their stand, as if it were a ring toss booth at a county fair. Choose your eggs, flip on a switch under the ledge by your hips and a light bulb turns on inside the hold. Each egg can then be placed over the hole and exam­ined to make sure there are no unlaid embryos loom­ing within. It’s quite a med­i­ta­tive process to me now, care­fully select­ing each egg and set­ting them aglow to exam­ine them.

Buy­ing a dozen white eggs in their car­tons from the super­mar­ket now seems like a con­cept so waste­ful, so removed, so forced. Sure there’s plenty of things that I miss about “home”, but like I said I’m get­ting used to how things are done around here– and some things really aren’t that bad at all.

A not-so-super market

This is my local mar­ket. Not the big one that has a lot of really nice can­dies and fresh pack­aged eggs and a pretty decent West­ern sec­tion, but the one that’s next to the wet mar­ket I like to go to and kind of smells like old cardboard.

Does it scare you? It kind of scares me, too. The aisles are super nar­row, a lot of the age of the items on the shelves are ambigu­ous, and I am pretty sure there is no stock house in the back so every sin­gle prod­uct is stcked high-high-high on the shelves.

But you know what, I don’t mind it. Not only for the fact that it is closer to home and twice as cheap, but also because I’m now becom­ing fond of all things Chi­nese. And, see­ing a photo like this makes me smile with dis­be­lief that I actu­ally include some­thing like this in my weekly routine.

China is big.

Did you guys know that?

The CIA’s online world fact­book has a bounty of inter­est­ing num­bers on China. As I read the list of China’s bor­der­ing coun­tries– Afghanistan, Bhutan, Burma, India, Kaza­khstan, North Korea, Kyr­gyzs­tan, Laos, Mon­go­lia, Nepal, Pak­istan, Rus­sia (north­east), Rus­sia (north­west), Tajik­istan, Viet­nam– I think about every­thing it’s done for the Chi­nese food cul­ture. Nat­u­rally the vari­ety of cui­sine varies in every coun­try, but in a land as large as China, you’ll see the influ­ences of these neigh­bors trick­ling in from every one of its four­teen borders.

Mex­i­can food has such a large place in today’s Amer­i­can diet. Tex-Mex, Baja Cal­i­for­nia cui­sine, and South­west style fla­vors– I can only imag­ine what our diet in the States would be if we were not flanked by two coun­tries, but rather, ten or twenty. And no offense Canada, but your con­tri­bu­tion of Pou­tine isn’t quite on par with Mexico’s gift of Nachos (but it’s okay, because you gave us hockey).

Only when I moved here did I see evi­dence of the West­ern Chi­nese mus­lim pop­u­la­tion, look­ing more Arab than any Chi­nese per­son I had been accus­tomed to see­ing. In Guangzhou they sell nuts and dried fruit from their wooden wagon carts next to the sub­way entrance, and keep the city’s mus­lim restau­rant count high.

The Diplo­Man and I stopped in at one of these quick-eats joints a few weeks ago. Point­ing to a wall of a pic­tures lit under a flu­o­res­cent light tube, we selected a cou­ple of hearty rice and noo­dle based dishes. It was cer­tainly dif­fer­ent than any Chi­nese food I had eaten in the past, but still had a famil­iar­ity that I sup­pose any beef and noo­dle dish does in ref­er­enc­ing my food mem­ory bank. Maybe it was the sat­is­fac­tion of an oily plate of noo­dles, but I could see how West­ern China sur­vived cen­turies of tur­moil and con­quests off of this stuff.

Hello, China!

So, loyal read­ers (all ten of you)- You may have noticed a lit­tle change in the looks of my Peeps. Whad­dya think?!

I spent the first part of last week try­ing to fig­ure out how to flu­idly switch over from Blog­ger to Word­Press, and then spent the lat­ter half of the week not-so-fluidly mak­ing for­mat­ting cor­rec­tions, CSS tweaks, load­ing (and unload­ing) plug-ins, and test­ing out dozens and dozens of themes. Here, for bet­ter or worse, is the still-in-progress yet pre­sentable blog.

Why the switch? Well, most Amer­i­cans in China sub­scribe to a VPN to get their fix of Face­book, YouTube, Hulu, and Google Reader– among hun­dreds of other sites not acces­si­bile with the reg­u­lar inter­net in China. VPN for all you non-techies, is a subscription-based ser­vice which once loaded and keyed-in from a com­puter, allows a per­son to remotely log on from an Amer­i­can IP address. Our VPN is hosted from a SF loca­tion, so we’re tech­no­log­i­cally close to home– it’s as if we con­nect and log-on via a router in San Fran­cisco. Any­way, VPN access, though amaz­ing and inex­pen­sive and easy to install, is just another step which slows down what is an already blazing-slow inter­net con­nec­tion. It’s really quite amazing.

As you’ve guessed, Blogspot (and sub­se­quently all blogspot-hosted blogs) is blocked here in China. Word­press, sur­pris­ingly, has so far flown under the radar of silly gov­ern­ment inter­net cen­sor­ship rules, although me writ­ing that prob­a­bly doesn’t con­tribute much to keep­ing things under wraps. Any­way, in an effort to reach my Chi­nese homies, I made the switch. So really, whad­dya think?!

The ugly side of Yangshuo

I was amazed that such a remote, iso­lated town was able to cap­i­tal­ize on the tourism indus­try as much as Yan­shuo had. Arriv­ing on a Thurs­day dur­ing the rainy off-season, we only got a small taste of the tourist craze– and I’m happy to say that’s all we saw.

Over the course of the two days, we encoun­tered a few Chi­nese from even more remote areas of China who came to Yang­shuo to prac­tice their Eng­lish with the laowai, or for­eign­ers. We were able to bar­gain street ven­dors from 200rmb down to a measly 20rmb. We were approached left and right by locals sell­ing their boat tours, their bicy­cles, post­cards, and flower wreaths. I was asked if I was a tour guide for the Diplo­Man and our friend. A tour orga­nizer told me there is a boat which floats down the river, trans­port­ing indi­vid­u­als from Guilin to Yang­shuo– 400rmb for for­eign­ers, 200 for a Chi­nese speaker like myself.

Again, I’m just happy we were able to expe­ri­ence the relatively-quiet side of Yang­shuo. I’d hate to think of the area clogged with flag-bearing tour group lead­ers, blar­ing instruc­tions on their megaphones.

Yangshuo

Last week we had a friend in town, and instead of show­ing him our usual Guangzhou haunts, we went adventuring.

We decided on a two-day trip to Yang­shuo, about a 6 hour bus ride from Guangzhou. Upon our 5am arrival by bus, bleary-eyed and try­ing to stay some­what dry from the rain, we headed straight to a hos­tel for a few more hours of rest. The next morn­ing as we were walk­ing around, I felt like I had been trans­ported overnight into some mag­i­cal land.

Yang­shuo was con­sid­er­ably colder and wet­ter than the more coastal Guangzhou. But rather than mak­ing the town dreary, the fog cre­ated a beau­ti­ful set­ting for karsts to peak out of, and the rain slicked the stone walk­ways, the gor­geous lan­scape reflect­ing on the tini­est surfaces.

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