Dried Fish

Wow, I’m on a fish kick lately.

This is the last one for awhile, I promise.

I just couldn’t help but take a picture of this scene.  Where back at home we pickle and can and roast and smoke and cure to our hearts’ delights, here it seems that some take the DIY mentality to a whole new world.  Where some households have their underwear and bedsheets hanging on clothes hangers from their windowsill, this household has a few rows of fish tied up to dry.

I wish I was friends with this person.

Spring is in the air- a new hope for the market

For some reason, in the first couple months of being here I was a bit skeptical at the prospect of any change in the offerings of my local wet markets. As if China, because it didn’t observe Daylight Savings, also didn’t change its agricultural output!?

But as February turned into March, and small oblong mangoes that fit in the small of your palm replaced the tiny cartons of strawberries (yes, strawberries were abundant in January- how crazy does that seem!), my fear of a non-changing market has slowly evaporated. Just this past week, I’ve noticed more new produce springing up at my favorite vendors.  Stalks of asparagus the size of carrots, and vines of a leafy plant that might be bay leaves sold by the branch, all over the place (I plan to inquire about this bay-leaf-I’m hoping it’s basil-plant on my next trip).

Tomatoes and cucumbers have been at the markets since I’ve been here, and they’re still holding their place along the scallions, chives, daikon, corn, red onions (not a yellow onion for miles) and chinese celery.  I’ve gotten used to cooking with the vegetables that have been available so far, and am certainly looking forward to the new crops of goodies that are waiting to be revealed!

And now for your viewing pleasure, a fish-bludgeoning scene from the market, fit for a fish horror flick:

Dumpling surprise

What already seems like ages ago was a trip to Zhongshan and a visit to a Cantonese restaurant specializing in regional dishes like roasted pigeon, horrible meat cookies, and this- tiny balls of ground pork wrapped in thin sheets of fish.

It sounds crazy, I know- like some ultra-modern, Noma-inspired-science of cooking-meets-traditional-with-a-twist type of dish. But it’s not, it’s just plain traditional. Small filets of fish were rolled out using a blunt wooden dowel, pausing only to flour the surface by dabbing a large flour sac onto the increasingly thin filet of fish.  Eventually a paper-thin sheet of what was once a cut of fish (which you can see in the pic above) is producted. The ladies who do this job amazed me in their proficiency at rolling out each filet to the perfect see-through thinness. I imagine if I gave it a try, the result would be a disaster.

After the fish sheet was rolled out, it was sliced into small squares, and then a pork and green onion filling loosely wrapped inside.  These little “dumplings” were then boiled in a clear consomme-like broth, and served as a mild appetizer.  If you hadn’t seen the little fish filet being rolled out, I swear you wouldn’t have known it was just that.  This kind of stuff inspires me, and once I perfect the art of homemade dumpling-making (something on my culinary to-do list), I may venture to try this as a kitchen experiment.

The Fish Guy

Is it just me?  Or is this guy a strange mix of looking like a fuzzy bear cartoon and a deranged axe murderer?

Regardless of his intriguing appearance, I was quite drawn to his display of fish parts.  Like the pristine butcher cases in the States, fish and meat butchers also lay out their work on display to their adoring fans/buyers.  But unlike the States, it’s always an unlabeled, sometimes indistinguishable array of parts and cuts.

Popularly displayed by the fish mongers here are whole fresh fish, cut open on one flank to reveal their lungs (air sacs?) still pulsating with what I can’t believe to be life–maybe instead, something more akin to the storied chicken running around with his head cut off.  It’s part showcase of butchering skills and part testament to the freshness and quality of fish.

Like many other things these fish guys sell, I’m not quite sure how to go about buying this…time for a market adventure, perhaps!