Night Market in Phuket

Dur­ing the day, when you can feel each ray of the sun beat­ing down on your shoul­ders and reflect­ing off the black pave­ment beneath your san­daled feet, Phuket is just way too hot to do much of any­thing, lest you go sun­bathe by the pool or hang out under and umbrella on the beach. Even that is almost too hot to do.

But at night, when the sun goes down and the tem­per­a­ture along with it, street ven­dors, hawk­ers, bars, restau­rants, and stores light up. Phuket comes alive at night.

Last year on our New Year’s trip to Phuket, I enjoyed a mean fried chicken from the local night mar­ket– one of the best fried chick­ens I’ve ever had. This year I strolled through the mar­ket again.…

And not too sur­pris­ingly, I saw many of the same ven­dors as I did last time.

And though was ver­rrry tempted, because it was close to bed­time, I man­aged to get out of there empty handed (and empty bellied).

Mangovan!

Man­go­van!! Sounds like an inter­na­tional super­hero in Span­dex, doesn’t it?

I don’t have any expla­na­tion for this photo, it’s just a heap of man­goes, in a van, with all the doors open. This guy’s all about easy access and mobil­ity, I guess. Another gen­er­a­tion of street ven­dor, I suppose?

More street snacks in Yangshuo: The zongzi (粽子)

Not being from one region in par­tic­u­lar, (a rar­ity in such a cuisine-specific coun­try) the Zongzi is a tamale-like con­coc­tion that every Chi­nese per­son has eaten in his/her life. As much as turkey is a part of Thanks­giv­ing in the states, Zongzi are a huge part of the Chi­nese hol­i­day Dragon Boat Fes­ti­val, in early June. Com­mon lore tells var­ied sto­ries, all involv­ing a famous poet drown­ing him­self (some sto­ries are for love, some for polit­i­cal sac­ri­fice), and the vil­lage peo­ple throw­ing pack­ets of rice into the river to keep the fish from eat­ing his body. To cel­e­brate the hol­i­day, wrap­ping and eat­ing these Zongzi’s are com­mon tra­di­tion, and gluti­nous rice is stuffed into hearty bam­boo leaves, and filled with either savory or sweet goods. Nowa­days Zongzi can be found at all times of year, every­where from the streets, to super­mar­ket freez­ers, to dim sum restaurants.

In Yang­shuo we came across an elderly woman rolling a cart of Zongzi down the street. I’ve had plenty of Zongzi of the home­made and super­mar­ket and dim­sum vari­ety, but have yet to taste the smaller, always-steaming street vari­ety. Mild in all senses– tex­ture, fla­vor, tem­per­a­ture– it turned out to be a very sat­is­fy­ing mid­day snack. I bet if I were hun­gry I’d surely wolf a few of these down.

Hey Sugar

Sugar Cane is a big treat in China, and many other asian coun­tries as well. Look how big this stuff is– like edi­ble bam­boo stalks.

Most of the time it’s sold, on the street, off of a cart. The ven­dor will hack you off a stick about a foot long, and using a small machete that looks like a rasp, he will shave off the hard, outer bark leav­ing you with the soft, sweet, yellowish-white flesh. But it’s not just to be eaten– sugar cane flesh is veiny and fibrous, and you chew a bite as you would a stick of gum, spit­ting out the stringy fibers (usu­ally on the side of the road).

Now that it’s cold I’ve seen the sugar cane ven­dors retreat back into their homes and stores, but when the weather is warm there is fresh sugar cane on every cor­ner, off of each metro exit. The other day I spot­ted this lone sugar cane ven­dor parked amidst a sea of white vans. Nobody craves sugar canes in chilly weather. She didn’t look too thrilled…

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